wow, much bigger and more powerful than I anticipated. ###### was firing, breaking top to bottom. got some really great rides, and a few insane wipeouts. lots of paddling, but huge rewards if you can muster up the courage to stroke into a deep one...
more pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/CityStoke/XmasEveBombs?feat=directlink
Awesome pics. ###### at 8am wasn't a tough paddle, but it was *long*. And, as others have said, it was solid & heavy. But, it was beautiful out, & the waves were well shaped & well organized. Sets were 1.5x+ & winds were offshore. Due to the high period, though, those sets were really infrequent, & the offshores made them tough to get in to. I feel like I should have had a lot more rides than I did, but there was a lot of floating & freezing...
In other news, my buddy completed the OB winter season hat trick: 3 broken boards in one season, all different types of boards. This morn, his leash ripped out of his fin box of his shortboard. He's also broken in half his longboard & his minigun. He's either got the worse luck ever or has made some bad decisions this season. Probably a combination of both.
Holy S dude!
If it's *ANY* consolation to your friend ...I had the worst goddam bomb just totally fold onto my ass this morning. Dude, I took one look and was like 'yep, I ain't gunna make this one....' I looked around decided it was safe to ditch, and ditched.
The only consolation prize was when I got back out, this old timer that remarked 'well I guess that one taught you courage'. Indeed, 10footer at least, heaved, pitched, and folded the lip explosion right on top of me :) Insult to injury was that the interval wasn't too bad right? Well only a few mississippi's after that, the same thing. I guess I have good luck today or something hahahah :)
Also, #1 is awesome, but just to be diff't going with impending doom #3 :)
Those pictures are stellar. What kind of camera are you using and how do you actually keep it next to you without crushing your skull on duck dives, etc.?
thanks all for the comments, merry xmas. @H20MansLibrary - i shoot with a GoPro wrist cam strapped to my left wrist, it flips up to take pics and then folds back down so it's not too in the way. it's basically a toy camera, so getting good shots is more positioning and luck than anything. i'd like to try shooting from the water with a serious DSLR and housing, but it would be impossible to shoot and surf at the same time.
thanks for the response. those shots you took are great. makes me want to get one of those...
