Yo. Was out at ###### about 12 to 2pm and it was perhaps one of the best days of the year. Not crowded. Overhead. Easy Paddle. Lots of bombs for the taking on the outside. If the weather does not turn should be good tomorrow in the AM. No rain yet. If you need a session, do not delay.
I was out at ###### from 9 to 12.
http://cryptomail.livejournal.com/16821.html
I live for surfing days like that. Friday was a pretty tame day for OB. To cryptomail: you make me feel like a more accomplished surfer than I really am. Remember that the ocean is just a bunch of water. If you fight it you will always lose. Take a deep breath and just let it be your accomplice. For the steep take-offs, position and good paddling technique is everything. It also helps to point your board in the direction you think you are going to go.
Yeah position is everything senor pelicano :) As far as fighting it, eh, I don't fight it and I've taken my share of serious falls off of DOH to not really worry about it. It's just the damn lip bombs that fold over and dump 41 kiddie pools of water on top of me that still kind of make me go "eh" :)
