Post session update - ###### was suuper fun, clean, easy paddle. But waves kept moving around. Caught a couple of decent ones, then finished with a beautiful clean right that held up & carried me all the way in. Nice way to get back in the water.
Note: one younger ripper must have caught about 30 waves out there on his thruster. Just kept paddling out & catching waves. Was very envious.
Lots of smiles in the ######y lineup this AM. Often a symptom of fun waves.
cryptomail (not verified) 2 years ago
good times...yeah and that kid.... haha...loves that fast inside. I like them fat, slow, shouldery and outer. My inside game isn't so good :( Guess who was better adapted, and had more fun? :) Still a great day. When @sticker left, he killed it a bit :) haha.