fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

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Saturday 9am - San Francisco - Ocean Beach, fair surfing

I'd give the conditions good, my surfing a Fair-. My head was not into it, and in big surf, that adds up to a whole lot of No Good. Brutal paddle of about 40min at Rivera St, caught one DOH right...decent. Talked to one of the notorious OB Hellmen in the water about not being mentally into it. His words: "f---ing charge it. Take your nuts out of your sack, and go." I did just that on a very big, late left and got obliterated. Free fall down the face, landed and got annihilated.
Now I'm home, nuts back in my sack, nursing my wounded pride.
Powerful waves today, literally and metaphorically.

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by marklukach via Web
4 comments
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H20MansLibrary
9 weeks ago

I hear you on not being into it. My head said "don't paddle out alone if your head isn't into it." actually it was more like "if you can't find your sack stay out." so I swung down to LM and surfed the north end. HH+ and ocasionally I got three turns in. Mostly drop and pull into a close out. Done and off in search of my nuts.

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sticker
9 weeks ago

Love it & can so relate. Thanks for the report.

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King of Kooks
9 weeks ago

Wouldnt taking nuts out of sack slow you down? Wind resistance and all. Except for me. Not that much wind resistance.

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cryptomail
9 weeks ago

Mark, you rule dude. You got out there, all that counts. When it's like that out there, personally I couldn't give a rats ass about catching a wave tbh...I mean it's all fine and dandy, but I like admiring the power more than anything, and overcoming the challenges. As cheesy as I made that sound, it's true :) Catching waves when it's that big is just desserts for my skill level.
Also, I've seen you eat donuts so bad at Sloat btw, so I know for a fact that you charge :D
A few months ago, I was in the parking lot watching, and you got out. A big ole macker came and I'm like "uhhhh this guy's going whether he wants to or not, lol" You went, but it was wayyyyy too steep and skidded down the face none worse for the wear though!
Keep charging and don't let not catching these stupid big beasts get to you. ROARRRRR!

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