######, waves barely breaking on the outer bars with most if the energy being focused on the inside. Didn't see any takers and it's looking a bit disorganized. Maybe it'll improve as the tide pulls out a bit more but it doubtful.
well I was there, and well...since I refuse the inside punishment...image says it all.
oh btw, big ups to the body surfer on a bicycle at first light there...*CORE*
Just got out at ######. Bigger than I thought it was going to be, with sets definitely double overhead, if not bigger. It was very shifty on the outside and peaky with little more than a drop, but on days with this much power you don't need much more than a drop to get your willies. Got a few fun ones though, with a lot of chasing.
were you out around 10:30? though i may have seen some one but it was hard to tell w/o my glasses. I always check the surf w/o glasses cause that how it'll look out there...slightly blurry.
