Friday 11am - San Francisco - Ocean Beach, good surfing
Had a fan-frickin-tastic bodysurfing session mid-morning, catching thumping waves on the inside during the high tide. Outside was total mush burger, but the inside was heaving and offering some epic barrels if you were willing to go for it. I had a world-class wipe-out...flew down the face and saw it hollowing out in the most unforgiving way, so I chucked my hand plane and went fetal. My buddy who was paddling back out said he saw me spitting through the barrel curled up like a baby. But beyond the wipe-out some very very very fun waves, looked decent for surfing too.











