surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

3248
Friday 8am - San Francisco - Ocean Beach

Big is back at SFOB. 20" energy delivering DOH+ mackers to outer bar (& my head). Glassy & lined up, tho, so gun it up & go.

10
mahu
2 years ago

20" sounds kinda small unless you're a surfing mouse. :)

sticker
2 years ago

Um, 20 seconds. EDIT: Harsh response. Softened. :)

over_the_falls
2 years ago

I'd get wrecked at 20-inch OB.

ConsciousPilot
2 years ago

20 inch? here's the part where @KingofKooks posts his favorite remote control surfer video....

sticker
2 years ago

Hence, @mahu's mouse reference.

sticker
2 years ago

Bah, double post.

cryptomail (not verified)
2 years ago

welp...back from putting around....I made it out (stubborn, yes)...but let me tell you...
Cookie Monster was there, and accounted for, in full glory.
I charged in first (yay, let's go go go go!!) then I got to him. Then I saw what was going on...and my arms for some reason didn't want to paddle as fast anymore :)
So...Lee passes me, and I'm perfectly fine with it. What I wasn't fine with, was watching Lee look like a little dot, barely scraping over the top, and surely dropping such that the board makes a swish sound when he's on the bottom of the Cookie Monster. That's when I said 'ugh. I'm going to have to get through that, aren't I?'
So I bide my time, holding my position looking for a break that wouldn't break my board or test my swimming abilities. Finally I make it past the monster, and I think to myself, oh I'm out aren't I? Then I see two boards and a swimmer very far away and my heart sunk even lower, because that meant only one thing: more danger lol.
Sure enough DOH sets were coming in absolutely going top to bottom and I was perfectly happy being away from Cookie Monster and far enough away from top to bottom outside mackers. I found my way to the huddled group, and I guess you can say I made it out.
What better way to spend the morning?!
Thank you SFOB. Survivasurf once in a while is fun :) Especially when you have good friends to share it with.

sticker
2 years ago

OK, but you gotta tell the rest of the story.... That you thought @lee was out there somewhere, but in reality, he'd done called it a day almost as soon as he made it past the last break 300 yds out. We saw him in street clothes as we trudged up the beach after our session. As I drove away, he was sleeping in his car awaiting your return. :)

H20MansLibrary
2 years ago

so is there a group consensus on the afternoon viability? i got stuck with a work problem in the a.m. and i was thinking the afternoon was possible. but now i'm feeling less sure (edited out ball shrinking comment btw). is it just going to be an unruly beatdown later?

cryptomail (not verified)
2 years ago

haha sticker, yeah :)
Lee called it, but he was still CLOSE to where he started. LOL Mark and I however....ugh. We did a Sunset Tour!!! ###### ###### Express ALL ABOARD!!!

H20MansLibrary, I think this puppy went home yiping :(
Your mileage may vary, but I think if you went a bit further South, you could take away some of the crazycrazy and score.

counterbeing
2 years ago

What boards are people taking out to SFOB on a day like today? Full on guns? Or semi-guns?

sticker
2 years ago

Biggest I have is a 7'2" Rusty mini, and I needed another 6" (inches, not seconds) today & have needed another 6" for most of this winter.

Joke about my personal endowment omitted in honor of Maria's charging this morn.

greg
2 years ago

Mine is 6'6. Being a not-so-good surfer, I'm much happier with the slightly shorter board that I know I can duckdive, and maybe pick off some of the smaller waves out there on a day like today. In any case, my board is a beater (complete with repaired/reinforced stringer) , so i don't feel too bad about saving myself and ditching the board if the cookie monster is about to fall on my head. (and won't feel too bad if, after getting back to the surface, i find that my leash has snapped, or that half my board has deserted me in favor of a carefree life on the high seas.)

lee
2 years ago

I was out on my 6'3" today, total joke. The forecast was for small waves again this morning and I didn't check the buoys before getting in the car and just grabbed that board. Made the paddle easy as can duck dive it very deep. I didn't really get close to catching anything anyway (over the inner bar, set on the head, coudn't see anyone else anywhere, turned around and came back in), so the shortness wasn't really an issue.

H20MansLibrary
2 years ago

looks like it cleans up and gets great again on sunday....

cryptomail (not verified)
2 years ago

Brought my 7.0 out, and here's why, which was markedly different than Lee :)
I looked at the buoys and the swell model and it said *later* today would be thumping. So from 6:30 to say 10am or so, it was supposed to be mellow, and then after that, a big ramp up to DOH. Well, it's my opinion that while the general model is in fact accurate, the minutia down to the hour is NOT to be trusted. If anywhere on the map, it says DOH, I bring the mini gun out.

sticker
2 years ago

I looked at the buoys when I woke up & it said 6'@20", so I guessed it would be a solid 6'-10'. Definitely knew the mini was gonna be in order. Was surprised at some of the 2.5x'ers out there, though.

stokereport
2 years ago

with a six foot swell you'd expect a 20s period to be at least 1.5x at OB. the stormsurf site has some nice info on this: http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/papers/category.html. it's always hard to estimate the real period though ... if you look at it now you'll see energy in pretty much all frequency ranges (see chart below). stokereport calculates the period as a weighted average of all the energy ranges (if anyone cares :)

i was thinking about changing the stokereport height graphs from "swell height" to "expected face size" using the stormsurf translations. anyone got an opinion on that?

sticker
2 years ago

So my 6'-10' estimate *should* have been accurate... But I was thinking as I took another DOH APCO to the head this morn, it also depends on direction, and, as you duly noted, how many different swells are coming in. And then, to complicate matters more, the closest buoy we have alive right now is the HMB buoy, and energy from that buoy seems to be able to morph pretty well by the time it hits OB.... I'm sure there are lesser kooks out there that have it much better dialed in than I do.

As for "expected face size", how accurate are those estimates of estimated swell sizes? Any one check stormsurf against reality w/any regularity & know?

stokereport
2 years ago

the best buoy is cdip 142 which is (a) awesome (full spectral data) and (b) 4 miles directly west of sf, here to be exact.

it's used extensively in stokereport, for wave height and swell direction and composition.

tcannon
2 years ago

@stokereport: How about instead of changing "swell height" to "expected face size" just have both? Leave the one, add the other. Same amount of effort on your part, and we get more graphs and things to not look at when we're grabbing the wrong board and heading to OB.

You can lead us to water... but then we stop listening and just paddle out.

pickle_sf
2 years ago

just to throw in what i've picked up on my years surfing OB and my OCD buoy watching...i've focused on directions of swell and impact- mostly at ###### cause that's where i surf the most and because we all know the ###### gets full smack- no mystery. on NW swells at 280 - 300 degrees, you get the full impact as on S swells from 180-200 degrees. But I've noticed, say, the swell is 6ft @ 20 seconds at 302 degrees, the difference between ###### and ###### is GINORMOUS, it's moving past. You throw in WNW or WSW though, and those degree probabilites change and the wave (at ######) becomes more sideways and closed out. for what it's worth...

oh, and i know nothing about ###### cause i lost it in a breakup and just started sneaking back like a year ago :O ssshhh

stokereport
2 years ago

@tcannon: one of the major design principles of stoke report is "more is not better". i've tried to keep it minimal. i've tried not to be surfline. i suspect that most people using the site are confused by the lines for both period and swell height and their mind would be blown to bits if i added a face height line. anyone?

cryptomail (not verified)
2 years ago

I'd take the face and love it. Works for me. Currently I have this internal multiplier of two in my head. Basically if I see 10, I envision vonstanger searching for hellmen with a telephoto :) .

mr_poop_head
2 years ago

my 2 cents - i say remove swell height. Why even go there? This is not and should not try to be a forecasting site. We all know what sites, buoys, forecast sites that do this and we can go there.

Your site is good at the post-surf updates and comments.

tedm315
2 years ago

I find face height reports very useful. I like the way the Stormsurf Quikcast report and Surfline 5-day forecast emphasize face heights. For south swells in particular it's not obvious how swell height translates to wave faces.

stokereport
2 years ago

@mr_poop_head: i agree that focus and addressing your core competencies is a good thing. does anyone actually like the swell and weather information / forecast? perhaps a user-survey is in order.

sticker
2 years ago

Definitely like it. I always triangulate date from various sites anyway, but definitely like having it here, particularly now that I know a little more about how your forecasts are generated which leaves me feeling more confident in its accuracy.

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