Fun morning up and down the beach. Lots of energy in the early part of the morning. Seemed to mellow out after 8. I paddled up to the far-north to find a whole-lotta whomping close-out. Mid-beach seemed to work better: fun drops, make-able sections, some occasional long-ish rides. Totally worth paddling out.
Kind of a stiff current pulling everyone south. The sun finally showed up around 9.
Well said. Only thing missing from your description was the crowds which showed up around 8. I think I saw you or your body double sporting a beard and riding a green longboard. That current was annoying. Couldn't hold my position for long south of the pump house. North had whomping closeouts as you mentioned which I rode/flailed over the falls a few times.
Green log: beard. That was most-likely me. What were you sporting? Yes, the crowd was a bit heavier than usual, but everyone seemed spaced-out pretty evenly (small consolation).
I'll bet that was a fun ride going over the falls on some of those sets! I could see how a shoulder could lure you into it, then whomp!
From the parking lot I saw a few folks try to work with the larger action on the far-north-end, but it didn't look like it worked too well. At one point I think I saw a 10+ foot wall of white water roll right over someone. When I paddled up there, it didn't seem to pack quite the same punch. No people up there at least (small consolation).
Understandable that you didn't recognize me. I wasn't in my grey macaque form today as shown in my current profile picture. I was on a 8ft board, white rails with blue stripes down the center. I'll say hi next time. Yes, the shoulders were alluring and then whammo. The crowds weren't that bad as you mentioned, pretty spaced out, but I had a guy run me over and give me the leash clothesline-to-the-neck treatment when he totally biffed a take off while paddling right at me (I was avoiding the guy who actually caught the wave). I genuinely think he didn't see me until the last minute so I didn't get mad but he didn't say anything about it after. I asked if he was okay and he said yes as he paddled away. Kinda rude but an otherwise fun session.
