Conditions look similar to yesterday morning, a nice offshore breeze, some clean longer period swell in the water and glassy conditions. Waves look to be in the HH+ range and fairly heavy on the inner bars. it's still a bit sectiony. Looks like a good morning to surf OB. Go get some.
pretty much a repeat performance of yesterday. plenty of fun sand sucking dredgers on the inside if you are into that kind of thing. i had a blast.
Watched at ###### around 9am with a gallery of fence sitters. Many people denied. Did not see anyone make it out. Went to Rockaway. Looked good to the right there but this swell is too funky for my mojo.
Had an exhausting 3 hour session in the middle. Paddle out was eternal, waves on the outside were shifty, but there were some really fun rides. The lefts were working best. I'm pretty beat. First time on board-surfing in a while, and it was a good day to reintroduce it.
My paddle out took 45 minutes straight somehow drifting between Quintara and Santiago and then back again. When finally making it to the outside I was so exhausted but felt I had accomplished something. It was completely glassy out there with big mean double overhead plus wedges. I only saw one person to the south of me close to ######. Was that you marklukach? I was on my 6'6" feeling way undergunned.
I caught a couple waves and it was enough to send me packing. I surfed in and passed about 5 exhausted pissed off surfers staring at me with disdain.
It was quite a way to end the season!
