variable wave size, strength, and cleanliness
surfed dawn ~ 9 a.m. with @rmk. Conditions changed dramatically several times during the session, in this order: strong and messy | weak and clean | clean and fun | closeout. Seemed like everyone in the water caught at least one peeler. I got into a very fun steep left on the first wave of the day and had the opportunity to attempt some stepping later on. Best of all, the wind was mild and offshore.














