Maybe I am not die hard enough but to me, ob is not surfable at all. Mushy two footers. 5 guys in the water getting nada. So bummed I drove out here when I could have slept in....
odd. i caught about 6 super fun hollow head high rides. there was an occasional set that was 2' over. there were about 15 guys out where i was, killing it. i came in pretty early, maybe 7am, but it was still going off then.
yeah it was better than it looked - i surfed from 7-8 and probably caught ~20 waves, albeit most of them short rides. more fun than yesterday AM...
Maybe I have bad luck...but my photo doesn't lie. Sat there for 15 mins and couldn't muster the will to get in with what I was seeing. Maybe I 'just' missed it.
I'm going to semi-violate the rules and call that S. Maybe N was better? Maybe I'm wrong about my S's and N's, but regardless, it would do you some good to run the alphabet :)
Consider living in the 'set. Soooo worth it. I love living by the beach and listening to the waves through the bedroom window.
