The swell has dropped quite a bit since yesterday morning, and perhaps it has cleaned up a bit too. It's anyone's guess since the beach is blanketed by another thick fog. There is no wind to speak of. Since we're guessing I'm going with semi jumbled surf in the chest to shoulder high range. The wind is forecast to come up later today, so waiting for the fog to burn off is a dangerous game. Feeling lucky?
Crazy currents, lots of paddling. Fast head high surf. Punishment: 6/10. Reward: 2/10.
oh, it was fun at the ######. got out right around 7 with a couple other guys and had fun SH to HH peaks for about 2 hours until it started getting funky. even then it was still sucking and draining and fun. good stuff.
Did a delayed WWF tag-out w/@H2O, and although it was inconsistent, there were some fast little rippers on the inside. Warm water, cool misty fog, light wind. Just really nice being out even if the conditions weren't perfect. Happy.
I chose another part of the beach. The part that I know not to paddle out when it's bigish and short period. Somehow I can't help myself.
Was out Saturday about 1pm in the middle and the paddle to the outside break was a bit tough. No channels to be found. Some good waves if you were at the right spot.
yeah it was fun today, although the fog didn't burn off as i hoped it would. some nice little ramps though
