I'm looking at a disorganized assembly of incessant crumbly onshore slop. Dang. Gonna watch it for a while - there's a few guys in the water braving it. Maybe it'll clean up......
Higher tide would be better but I wouldn't wait too long. The wind will probably come up even more.
Yup, plenty disorganized in the early am. Varying size, frequency, steepness. Waves were linking up pretty well to the inside so the rides I got were long. Nothing to pine over, solid poor with glimmers of poor+.
Agreed w @tracey. Paddled out after a few of us helped out a guy who'd gotten bludgeoned in his bloodied forehead by his board; I then proceeded to catch a few waves, some of which linked up. Friendly folk in the water. Called it a day. Strong direct onshore winds, w associated poor conditions at this point.
Thanks for all your help getting him patched up. I think your knowledge helped reassure him that he was going to be okay a lot more than my gauze and tape. It's also reassuring know many of the folks in the water today have first aid kits handy for these sorts of things.
Hope the dude is okay and all stitched up already.
Yeah, bummed about M's mishap. I've surfed with him a few times. We had just closed a few degrees of separation too before that set came through. Thanks to everyone who helped him get patched-up.
Bummer about the dude. I looked at Tracy's pics...and that doesn't look surfable at all to me? Maybe there was something else out there...?
I seem to be great at getting the most MEH looking pictures of surf, even on good days. Those were right when I got there and right when I got there looked nearly unsurfable. 3 Guys out and exploding closeouts. It did organize a bit better into "sort of wave" vs "def not a wave" and from ocean of whitewash to 4 bars of whitewash. (a Poor- to a poor)
There were sort of shoulders every now and then. If I hadn't been out of the water for 2 weeks I probably would have been grumpy about the conditions, but the couple waves I got were decent rides so I was happy even if they were decent rides in slop. The other 95% of the session was scratching over warbly mixed up closeouts. If you've gotten waves lately, today's probably a good day to ride a bike. If you've been out of the water, this morning wasn't horrible, but it definitely was poor.
BTW, swung by the jetty first and it was clean, but flat. Had there been waves, I would have opted for that as a get-wet session. With enough foam a clean 2ft wave is pretty fun. Settled for Lindy and pretty okay with the waves I got. (Still would like the surf to finally shape up already...endless spring!)
Linda Mar cleaned up around noon. Shoulder high peeling set waves. Longboard noserides all the way to the beach.
I had fun at my spot to myself... then with like 7 desperados. Still got tons of waves actually...
Pretty great morning!
Tomorrow's my surf trip so enjoy this weekend at good ole' lindies!
I saw a big one coming, I paddled out past over of the lip but my board gets caught in the breaking closed-out face. I looked back to see where my board went. There it was coming towards me at lightning speed, my leash became a rubber band. Then I felt the rail hit my forehead, as my life flashed before. I shouted help, i knew I had a big gash on my forehead, bleeding. Blood in my eye made my vision blurry, the concussion made me feel woozy. And my white knight (greacen) appeared paddled towards me and helped me out of the water, a couple more people came to help (most from stokereport), one sherpa'ed my rainbow-stickered board to the beach, two others cleaned and bandage my wound. Greacen gave me a hug and told me I was going to OK. An hour later I was stitched up (9 stitches and a concussion), went to work and felt depressed wondering when I can surf again...
Due to the craziness, I forgot some of the stokereport guys names, I believe your handles are Tracey, David, and Greacen. Thanks to you all...things could have been worse without your help.
Brotherhood and sisterhood in the water and off,
Mark
Thanks for the update @mbanjo... thank goodness you're OK. Best of luck with the healing. Keep that wound clean and dry and intact; no more than 5 days til suture removal (that's specific to facial stitches, to prevent crosshatch scarring; might need a few "steri-strips" to keep the edges together after the suture removal); also, a little gloss of neosporin on it daily, just to prevent the edges from cracking/pulling.
Very pleased to have been part of a lovingly concerned crew that ushered you to safety.
I love the image of @greacen materializing out of the chop as the "white knight"!!! Yes indeed - Mythical proportions!
