Fair-
The swell jumped up a few notches over night but it's pretty disorganized. Looks to be about chest/shoulder high/Windswelly short little rides that I didn't see too many people getting after looking at it for a half an hour. It's a nice day out there with not a breath of wind and sunny skies. Happy September!
Went out for a session at the M-N-O-P-Q-R areas. Why so many? Well, you put in at M and you get out an hour or more later at R. Loads of current. Definitely some fun SH to HH surf with the occasional clean set. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit freaked when I paddled out at dawn after our very own shark week. Actually had Led Zeppelin's ominous Kashimir in my head as the morning's soundtrack (and I hate Led Zeppelin). Found my balls after about 10 minutes and then a fin comes flying at me on a set. Fortunately, this time it actually was a dolphin.
I found my way out three times, and to the cliffs of despair twice. There were some clean sets on the outside, but the inner bar was just brutally impassable at times. Got a good workout and not too much actual surfing, and left hungry as all get out. Got to Pizza on Norįega only to remember that they don't open till noon, so I went to a nearby bodega and grabbed a Welch's "Pineapple Soda", whose taste did not bear much resemblance to the eponymous fruit. Out of spite, I rode Lįncoln Ave. all the way home, and confirmed my hypothesis that drivers freak out around a fully-loaded Xtracycle and either creep by or change lanes entirely to pass. Good times. BBQ joint better be open!
Oh, and Crypto was there and says hi!
Yep, that inner bar would make you pay for trying to ride an outside wave a bit too long. I caught a few and got tired pretty quick. Need to get in shape for fall. Beautiful morning out. Waves should stay nice most of the day I think.
It sort of felt like airplane out there, flight 5'6 vernor airlines now arriving gate n... o... p... q... r...
+1 flight 5'11" Vernor airlines now arriving n... o... p... q... r... As has been said above, kind of fun shoulder high waves but disorganized. Some nice bigger outside ones but you really had to wait - right time, right place. My paddles out were not too bad, so maybe I just got lucky since I'm not in great shape at the moment.
@redtim, @platypus: I just want to tell you both "good luck". We're all counting on you.
BTW I went in south with all the rest of the commuters... It was dawg gawn fun. Chest to head with a few linkable racey sections that were lip smackin fun. Got better!
