Paddled out at Windy Mills and it took a good 15 minutes. Right when I made it outside a cleanup that looked like outer reef pipe came through and sent two out of three guys out to the beach. Huge spitting Western Oz $#!+ out there for the few who made it. Got two huge lefts and called it a day. Stoked!!!
PS, kblase, hats off to ya...seriously. Was just watching and man does it look mean, ugly, and real. 10-12 outliers. Not kilpatrick scale. The pussy in me wants it to be a bit more predictable and clean. I just came back from this long fishing concrete thing, and got my ass.completely.whalloped. Put in, sent home, and that's all she wrote.
You da man. I drove by and saw nothing but walls and walls of whitewater. I took a pass.
Current was pulling north pretty heavily and the waves were in my opinion here and there, I wouldn't quite say Good+ but surely had couple of fun rides and feel the 1.5hrs in my arms tomorrow.
should have pics from this morning's session soon....will post when my personal photographer emails em
It was at least double overhead out there on the biggest sets. Your right @kblase, it looked like giant northshore or West OZ and I felt undergunned on my 7'2. Should've had something in the over 8'0 category. Surfline said: "a slowly fading WNW swell"... that was definitely not right. I also only caught a couple waves but I was surprised not to have been pounded too many times on the paddle out.
I feel like when it gets over the 1.5 overhead at OB, it does this wally wall thing and then throws at the last second.... Gotta avoid that big throw by getting in early with the bigger board which I didn't have... and I'd need to borrow my roommates.... and I don't want to break it!
Still stoked and glad I made it out! Some of the bigger surf I've been in at OB.
I was out at SFRW during the same time. Low tide gnar combined with huge and fast waves. I got rolled on my 8-6 nsp long board after failing to catch a few bigguns on the outside. I've only been surfing for a few years so this is my 2nd time in big waves (1st was in punta lobos last month in chile. 30 feet outside, 10-15 at the 2nd break)
It just got bigger and bigger, eventually I was out so far in the center that I headed in and took 5 on the head, almost ended up in the center rocks. Got a lucky window between sets and headed to the southern beach. I was so tweaked on adrenaline that I couldn't get any work done at home after that session. I think my limit on that NSP board with my paddling abilities is 7-8 ft. I saw a few other longboards and guns out there but the shorter boards were catching the waves inside and at the point. Limits learned! Good to know.
