It's a beautiful day at the beach and the swell has filled in and depending on where you are looking, waves are from HH+ to DOH. At dawn it was lumpy and disorganized but things are cleaning up quickly and there are a few peaks that are starting to work well. Sadly I missed out on the fun, but you might have more luck.
I am not trying to be negative and this is comment is not aimed at the writer of this report, but I just do not understand the why so many people are compelled to give their version of a surf report. Let surfers go and see it for themselves, that has always been a part of the surfing life. Maybe it is just that few people live the lifestyle anymore. And from another angle, what folks consider good and epic just astounds me. I have surfed the Beach good and I realize that it does happen occasionally, but reading people's comments, one would think that we live in a high quality surf destination city !! WE DON'T !! If a surf rider happens to have a good day, it DOES NOT mean that it was necessarily good. It might have truly been a rare high quality day, but more often than not it simply means that the surfer lucked into a few good waves...and that is just great !! I rather not see your reports, but if you must, please don't base your report upon the level of fun you had. It's not about you. In case one does not know what good surf is, it is a very long interval swell, most waves peeling perfectly, glassy or light offshore winds, channels, waves breaking over the same bar, minimal current.
you clearly don't understand the nature of this website. Peep game:
Stoke: "stoked" - adjective - to be "stoked" is to be completely and intensely enthusiastic, exhilirated, or excited about something. those who are stoked all of the time know this; being stoked is the epitome of all being. when one is stoked, there is no limit to what one can do. also, "stoke" - verb - one can "stoke" oneself out by facing challenges or by revving up an engine within oneself to accomplish that which one desires. *being too stoked just means that you're still not stoked enough*
Report: a written document describing the findings of some individual or group; "this accords with the recent study by Hill and Dale"
to give an account or representation of in words
So you see my friend, stokereport.com a combination of these 2 definitions. No offense to you personally. People that dont want to read stoke reports should not come to a website called stokereport.com.
Good news. So many guys stuck in same rip put front of ###### that you don't have to paddle out. Just walk from one board to the next and you're outside.
Dudes, this morning was EPIC!!!1 I had so much fun, it was the time of my life. Surf conditions were frickin' awesome! Go get some!!!!
Heh. @mi123, what kind of masochist are you & your ilk? Do you also like punching yourself in the balls?
In reality, conditions were pretty marginal. 1.5x where I was, easy paddle, but waves were soft, unorganized, junky. Another beautiful sunny offshore morning, though. I caught a few, I kooked a few. I paddled relentlessly against a rip that wanted to give me a tour of the Farallons. All in all, a fine start to a Saturday.
I just posted on a comment on espn.com which read, "All your articles are so 'sporty.' Less reporting on sports and more...pictures."
@sticker's comment ... "Do you also like punching yourself in the balls?" - now there's a new line I've never heard before... ha. 30 yr anniversary of surfing OB this month. yikes!
KoK, I'm dyin here with that picture. I know where you went, and I came to the same conclusion while I was out there. Luckily I was done for then, and needed some tender viddles.
Got the food in me, and went to a place where it was ALOT harder to get out, and mucho gnarls. But no board stepping :)
