StokeReport User Surf Reports

Surfer Torn Apart in South Africa - TV Show Shark Men Being Blamed

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 08:19:00 -0700

Big controversy brewing about whether or not TV show Shark Men's excessive chumming led to the death of a surfer in South Africa. Their Facebook page is being hit: http://www.facebook.com/sharkmen Article on the tragic death is here: http://www.news24.com/SouthAfrica/News/Sharks-rip-surfer-apart-20120419

Book review: Saltwater Vampires

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:12:29 -0700

Yes, this is a book about surfers and vampires. It's a very fun, well-written read if you are open to it. It's easy to crap all over any book in the vampire genre, and I was fully expecting to do so myself, but this was a fun one. Overly serious book wankers need not apply. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Saltwater_Vampires.html

Who the hell would try and wear the Greg Noll jailhouse trunks?

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 11:22:15 -0700

I mean shit, you've got to be a complete tool to try and pull these off, right? The perfect suit for a shitty day at Linday. Get on it! What is Billabong thinking?

Paddle Battle.....

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 10:33:36 -0700

Very well written article by Chris Dixon on a brewing feud between big wave surfers and Laird.
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Book Review: 75-85 Surfing Japan

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:00:46 -0700

This is a cool book of Japanese surf photos from 75-85. Because it's all about Japan, the audience for this book is narrow. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/75-85_Surfing_Japan.html

Japan Tsunami Pictures - Before and After

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 09:09:02 -0800

This is the most amazing collection of before and after photos that I've ever seen. I've attached only one set of the pics. Click the link to see all of them. Amazing demonstration of the power of the ocean.

Completely Waterproof Mobile Phones...

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 10:57:57 -0800

When I'm not reviewing surf books, I run a mobile software company. Each year I go to Barcelona for a large mobile conference, and this year I saw something pretty cool. A completely waterproof mobile phone from Fujitsu. I believe they are all Android phones. They actually had the phones sitting in tanks of circulating water.

Book Review: Trout Rising

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 19:50:30 -0800

This is a really good surfing novel. It's a coming of age book about a young kook named Trout who gets three wishes from a surf genie (yes, a surf genie). The book is written by the famous Surf Travel chronicler, Kevin Naughton. Easy, fun reading. I particularly enjoyed it in light of the current crappy conditions. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Trout_Rising.html

New York Skateboarding in the 1960's

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:49:06 -0800

Sweet black and white shots from Life magazine. Here are three cool ones. First one is wipeout man. Second is fly-open with penny loafers. Third is just classic smooth sailing. Enjoy.

Book Review: Waves of Resistance. This one will be controversial

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 10:52:02 -0800

Took me a while to get through this one. It's an overly academic treatise on how Hawaiians have used the surf zone to fight colonial oppression. Some will call this book racist while others will empathize. Either way, it will explain why you get the stink eye when you visit the North Shore. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Waves_of_Resistance.html

New fin company...

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 19:34:25 -0800

Groovy new technology. Of course, fin quality really doesn't matter for my brand of surfing. :)

Dolphins play with their bigger relatives...

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 08:03:10 -0800

Pretty cool that a humpback and some dolphins were hanging out and playing of Kauai. It's like spongers and surfers all getting along...

Book Review: Men Who Ride Mountains

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 09:48:12 -0800

A 1969 book that is, sadly, outdated. Only the historically minded need apply for this one... Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Men_Who_Ride_Mountains.html

good surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:37:08 -0800

Magic

(Submitted via the Web)

Book Review: Surfing Photographs From The Seventies By Jeff Divine

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 15:07:22 -0800

This could have been a really good book, but it felt disjointed to me since the photo titles were put at the end of the book instead of with the actual photo. The result? You're flipping back and forth trying to create some form of narrative. Pity.

Book review: The Big Juice

H20MansLibrary — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 14:33:55 -0800

A solid collection of true big wave stories curated by John Long and Sam George. The first story by Shane Dorian justifies the price of the book in my opinion, but it's a very good group of stories. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Big_Juice.html

Surfline Founder Sean Collins Dies of Heart Attack

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 20:25:35 -0800

Wow, just read about him dying. A lot of people have mixed views on Sean, but he had a major impact on the surfing world. Article here: http://ht.ly/1CKsXo

Book Review: Ghost Wave

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 17:08:55 -0800

This is a solid book about the huge wave history at Cortes Bank. Unlike Susan Casey's book "The Wave" where big wave surfers are described like gods, Dixon's book tears back the varnish to show what's really underneath a lot of these guys. Good stuff. Review is here: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/GhostWave.html

fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:40:48 -0800

8' at 13 seconds makes for some power. Light off shores and definitely throwing at the right parts of the beach. Sadly, my session was cut short. Speaking of Arakawa boards....

(Submitted via the Web)

Surfing Book Gift Ideas

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 16:57:30 -0800

I've put together a list of books that make good basic gifts for the surfer in your life: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Gifts.html

Also, if anyone is interested, you can find announcements on new reviews on The Waterman's Library Facebook page. Yes, I finally got around to making one. http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Watermans-Library/246313275434017

Book Review: Mr. Sunset

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 13:27:37 -0800

The story of the North Shore legend, and fatally flawed junkie, Jeff Hakman. Interesting bio on a tragic, yet somewhat inspiring figure. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Mr._Sunset.html

Pigdog

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:46:48 -0800

Committed.

good surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:38:50 -0800

Very good this morning. OH+ to 1.5XOH at the better exposed portions of the beach. Super clean, offshore and firing. Will improve as the tide drops. Must have had 15-20 waves in about an hour and a half. A hard paddle is keeping the line-ups thin. Unfortunately, buoys are dropping so get on it now if you want to have some fun. Great morning.

(Submitted via the Web)

Book Review: It's Always Summer On The Inside

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:03:38 -0800

This is a solid book about wetsuit innovator, Jack O'Neill. Chock full of entertaining stories. Also, great history and photos from Ocean Beach and Santa Cruz circa 1955 to 1975. Review: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/ItsAlwaysSummerOnTheInside.html

Encyclopedia of Surfing Goes Digital......Maybe

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 09:29:35 -0800

So it looks like Matt is trying to get the EOS online, which is super cool. It's all part of a non-profit initiative. He's raising some money to make it happen, in fact, that's the only way it can happen. Here is a link to the site: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1391193483/encyclopedia-of-surfing

Book Review: The Surf Girl Handbook

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 07:47:32 -0800

This was a surprisingly good book that is geared toward female surfers. It provides information for newbies as well as intermediates. I think it's a better fit for a new female surfer than Ben Marcus' Surf Handbook. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/SurfGirlHandbook.html

surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 16:00:10 -0700

Bummed I couldn't make the SFOB bodysurfing event, but I got to watch my 11 year-old's soccer team throttle their nemesis. #proudpop

(Submitted via the SMS)

Toxicity of Surfing Infographic

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 09:19:58 -0700

Just sharing....don't get all medieval on me if you don't like it..

Jamie O'Brien Humps Turtle

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:42:41 -0700

But was it our buddy the location turtle? Outrage!

Good article by Bruce Jenkins on the event

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:51:48 -0700

Some good quotes from Matt Warshaw and Doc. Best quote for me: As for the paddling element, "Nobody around here seems to understand that the pros not only surf better than us, but paddle better as well," said Warshaw. "They'll be duck-diving their butts off, sure, but they'll make it to the lineup in half the time it takes the local crew.

Book Review: The Eighties At Echo Beach

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:36:43 -0700

This one won't be for everyone, but if you grew up in SoCal in the 80's this small stretch of beach between 52nd and 56th streets in Newport was the spot to be if you surfed. Neon shorts, neon boards, neon wetsuits, crazy surfing on small waves. Obnoxious on so many levels, but impactful nonetheless. Review here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/EightiesAtEchoBeach.html

Brrrrrr. Cold tubes in Canada.... [video]

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 20 Oct 2011 16:05:47 -0700

Chilly, rainy tubes....

Book Review: No Bad Waves: Talking Story with Mickey Muñoz

H20MansLibrary — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:34:03 -0700

Legendary California waterman Mickey Muñoz's bio is a great collection of stories from a long life spent playing in the water. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/NoBadWaves.html

Book review: The Voodoo Wave

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:44:46 -0700

There have been plenty of threads about the drama with the Maverick's contest. Kreidler's new book, The Voodoo Wave, digs deep into the truth behind the story. He does a great, evenhanded job of capturing both sides of the story. What you'll see is that no one person is wrong or right. Knowing the story from multiple insiders on both sides, I can say that Kreidler's book is the real deal.

Book Review: Water Light Time

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 07 Oct 2011 13:43:54 -0700

Recommended by @Tracey, this is a very nice collection of underwater photos. Coffee table book. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/WaterLightTime.html

Book Review: Dude, Fun With Dude and Betty

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 15:28:32 -0700

The weird love child of "Dick & Jane" and "Gidget" (menage a trois?), this is a book for the teeny surfer in your life. Similar silliness to Rhinos Who Surf with munged grammar and made up surf words. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Dude.html

fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 08:52:05 -0700

Small but glassy and clean this a.m. Seemed like it was starting to build a bit as we exited. Fun on a log. Sunny, warm, glassy. Could be worse.

(Submitted via the Web)

fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 22 Sep 2011 09:02:19 -0700

Enough energy in the water to break a new leash string on the first large set to crash on my head. Good enough shape and pretty fun. Hello NW swell. 1.5XOH+ on the sets.

(Submitted via the Web)

Book Review: Surf Survival

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 07:26:03 -0700

I had an early copy of this book, which provided the background for my cover quote. The book content and layout improved since then, which is saying something since it was already excellent. Regardless, this is a must-have book for any committed surfer (particularly those who travel). It covers everything you could imagine surfing health related.

poor surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 08:09:46 -0700

Crap from the GGB to Half Moon Bay. The beach? Crap. Rocky? Crap. Lindy? Crap. Montara? Crap....You'll need to go further south to find something fun.

(Submitted via the Web)

Fire in the hole... [video]

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 01 Sep 2011 09:52:47 -0700

When it gets slow, what can you do? Strap some flares to the ass-end of your board and go surfing. Sorta interesting I guess, but also pretty weird with that Apocalypse Now kind of feeling.

Book review: Surfboard Wax: A History

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 17:12:26 -0700

Yeah, I know. Who would write such a thing? From the mind of SoCal surf shop legend Zuma Jay comes a very cool book about, well, the history of surfboard wax. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/SurfboardWax.html

Book Review: Harbour Chronicles

H20MansLibrary — Tue, 09 Aug 2011 16:03:39 -0700

Review of biography about legendary SoCal shaper and innovator, Rich Harbour. If you like surfing history, then this is worth reading. If you don't, well....it's not for you. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/HarbourChronicles.html

Free-diving Indian Ocean nomads under threat

H20MansLibrary — Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:13:57 -0700

The Bajau Laut, or Bajo, are marine nomads thought to come from the Philippines, who for centuries have lived out their lives almost entirely at sea. In dugout canoes known as lepa lepa they ply the ocean between Malaysia, the Philippines and Indonesia, fishing with nets and lines.

Book review: Increments of Fear - The Buzzy Trent Story

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 14 Jul 2011 11:49:18 -0700

Read and reviewed the new Buzzy trent bio called "Increments of Fear". Good, but not great, book. If you like surf history, you'll like enjoy this. Review is here: http://www.thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/IncrementsOfFear.html

surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 06:24:46 -0700

SFOB tiny misshapen gutless slop. #SFOB

(Submitted via the SMS)

The Aquada Amphibious Car [video]

H20MansLibrary — Wed, 06 Jul 2011 11:30:31 -0700

This is my favorite option for busting through the line-up....with style. What? You hate my SUP? Well, how do you like me now? Cost looks to be about $300,000 or so, which easily puts it within the reach of your typical surfer.

Surfer Tom Carroll Goes Over Giant Falls on Jetski

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 09:05:10 -0700

It’s one of the bigger risks of tow-in surfing — when the jetski pilot gets caught in a giant wave — and it happened a week or so ago to former world champion surfer Tom Carroll near Gracetown, Australia. The 49-year-old Carroll had just launched Ross Clark-Jones into a meaty 20-footer and got caught in the wave’s pull.

Book Review: Kula

H20MansLibrary — Thu, 05 May 2011 08:54:58 -0700

This is the third book in Chip Hughes' Surfing Detective series. Probably my least favorite of the series, but an easy, non-demanding read. If you like detective books and surfing, you'll probably enjoy this: http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/Kula.html

Book Review: Chasing Waves

H20MansLibrary — Mon, 02 May 2011 08:12:00 -0700

Review of kook confessional by Amy Waeschle. Not a bad read. Basically a surfing travelogue that captures the author's long journey from kook to surfer. http://thewatermanslibrary.com/Site/ChasingWaves.html