Pretty fun out there this AM. Intermittent but solid OH+ on the occasional set waves. Clean & windless. Paddle was easy the first time out, but some sucky re-paddle outs. Size was building as we were out. Some fun rights & lefts, couple of massive wipeouts / waves to the head.
Felt like we managed to sneak in during the calm before the storm. Will be interesting to watch this swell build. Felt like some potential real power on the way.