David

281
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1 year
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52 posts, 141 comments, 2861 votes
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Surf Reports by David


281
Thursday 4pm - Ocean Beach, fair surfing

1pm-230pm OB. jekyll and hyde situation. lefts were steep and hollowish and fast and broke hard and i wasn't enough of a rodeo star to manage them. rights were smooth and clean and pleasurable, and my desire for smooth & clean pleasure prevailed; i got lotsa rights. wind was moderate sideshore/offshore, sun was out, and it was just me and the gulls, and a few heads in the distance. better than i thought it'd be --- kind of the theme for the week, for me.

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1030am-1230pm. I love OB --- for 2+ hours, there was not even another soul within earshot, save for the dolphins, as I feasted on glassy head-high peaks at a mysto-bar that for whatever reason, was choosing to break fairly consistently despite what should have been a suffocating 6+ high tide. Sunny, windless, glassy, gorgeous day, and plenty of nice rides. Who would'a known? Stoked.

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I thought I'd sneak in a little dawn patrol session this morning - but instead brothers and sisters - I am now learning, as I witness this lamentable crumble-jumble before me, that my purpose is to suggest that you all save the gas, sleep, or whatever other exhaustible resource that you might have burned through, in order to take a look for yourselves. Any one who'd coax a fun session out of this crap is a more optimistic person than I - and I tend on the optimistic end of the spectrum. Oh well. I tried.

12
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Dismal. One poor guy getting tossed about the crumbly whitecapped windslop, and that's about the extent of it. Gonna head a little bit south and see if there's anything on offer. Agree with yesterday's favorable Santa Cruz reports, but what wasn't mentioned (perhaps because it's a given) is that by 9am or so, each tight little peak had about quadruple its reasonable carrying capacity of surfers on it, and when the waist-chest high rides would finally come in, we'd all be jockeying desperately to be the one lucky taker. There was one crazy chick in a bikini, though - that was nuts.

13
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Well. Linda Mar was pumping out in glassy, offshore, machine-like consistency... the only problem is that it was consistently nothing but close-outs. Mind-shatteringly frustrating, because I spent a good three hours in the water, thinking the whole time to myself, that I'm gonna catch it awesome when the tide fills in... it'll be here soon... any time now... aw jeez, throw me a little shoulder or two... come on please... aaaargh! Shoulda "driven south" or joined Eduardo420 in Santa Cruz for some of that "good"ness. Oh well. Live and (don't) learn.

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Monday 10am - Linda Mar, poor surfing

Summery slop-chop-crap, under gorgeous summery sunny skies. Great day to work on that awkward wetsuit-midneck surf-farmer tan, or get some paddling exercise sampling the crap-platter up and down the various portions of the beach. Deservedly uncrowded. I caught enough anemic shoulders to call it a day.

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I had a pretty interesting experience, late morning on Wednesday, which had gotten me thinking and reflecting all day. After seeing the impressive power pushing through at OB, I thought I might explore down south a bit, and get a sense for how this swell was lighting up some breaks that are less familiar to me...

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