fun surf out there this morning around low tide, semi clean HH+ working nicely on the outside bars where i was. things were a little disorganized with the short period but no complaints here, lot of wedgy ones to fill the stoke.
very fun out there YESTERDAY afternoon, lined up, clean and solid lines delivering stoke for the usual suspects at somewhere else location, after a month surfing land of the lefts this welcome back exceeded my expectations, stoked !
what a day out there! not epic or great , but very good, very fun surf for sure.
classic good fall conditions, HH+ waves, offshore winds under blue n sunny skies. long shoulders with hollow shape, and lots of smiles. stoked +