Double session today. Definitely ass cold this morning. Hood, gloves, the whole shebang. Very wonky and hard to line up. But there was some size and power moving out there. Got one HH+ right and had to go to work. Grabbed a sunset session and paid a heavy entry fee. Took 30 mins to get out. Same story as this morning. Wonky and crossed up but some shapely HH+ shoulders rolling through. Again with one nice right and called it good. Better than poor because I made it out and caught a couple.

"where i was at toward sunset wasn't too bad to get out but was a bit treacherous on the in ..."

"i saw someone take a pretty sick shortcut to the lineup today. they didn't even use their ..."

"Wavejet?"

"ha, didn't think about that one. i think they just knew the right place to be. "

Took the drive down with my brand new, custom made board from Sunset Shapers. Amazing how different the surfing experience is there. No shore break at all, long peeling rights (if a little mushy), and concentrated take off zone. Took awhile to get lined up. Eventually got some of the longest rides I've ever had. Not bad. Not bad at all.

"yes, i've heard tell some ppl call them point breaks ;)"

secret spot with no parking. lots of boats in the water and cameras on the bluff. biggish (15 - 18 maybe) but very inconsistent. only saw three rides while i was there. then the marine layer came down and the show was over. fun to watch for a few.

Surfed "Other" for the first time today. Easy to get in. Getting out is another matter. Really weird wave. Would take some getting used to. Did OK but not in a hurry to go back.

"Good work. Hopefully you didn't ding up your SUP too badly while getting out :-)"