What makes a person choose a longboard or a shortboard? What about kneeboarding or bodyboarding? Why do we humans choose so many different ways to ride waves, but usually stick with just one?
Shoulder high at times. Glassy and fun. I had a few seemingly endless lefts that really stoked my stoke. Peppering in a few rights along the way. Not too many folks out. Murky and foggy, not like the beautiful sunrise of yesterday. But, a great day to be in the water. Patience and selectiveness will be rewarded. Foam helps, too.
Sunshine-y, glassy, little knee high to waist high peelers. Good smiley crowd. Definitely a nice way to spend a mellow morning. Glad the rain stayed away...so far.
Nice and glassy, reflecting the foggy sky and delivering some good rides. Lotsa closeouts, but I found a corner and stayed on it for some screamers down the line. Shoulder high at times with a nice wall that can get mean and thumpy if you don't stay ahead of it.
The last few weeks I've been checking the reports and all the cams every morning and convincing myself "Well, it's not THAT good out there today. I'm not missing anything. Probably the day I woulda gotten bit anyway."
Big thanks to Sticker, AG Frank, and for David's report yesterday because they motivated me to get in the water today. It's a warbly windslop SMLM, but I said to myself "Those guys would go." and I got rewarded with some fairly decent warbly windslop rides. Good energy in the water and it feels great to have surfed the last 5 days straight. Not quite Dale Webster, but very stoked. Thanks for the inspiration!
Gosh, you'd think this stuff would just be common sense. Guess this explains those sinus issues every once in awhile. You know, the big animals in the ocean can be scary, but the microscopic ones freak me out, too. Oh well, time to go surfing.
Thank you, Ocean Beach. If only it were like this all the time. Instead, some days we fight. And some, we don't talk at all. But today, I remembered why I love you so much. Good waves with great lines and many turns. Stay like this for awhile please.