I can't adequately express to sr the depth of my sadness. a month ago today I tore my right quadriceps tendon. I had surgery and am in the long road to recovery. Aside from the depression surrounding not being able to surf i am hopeful for a full recovery.
I bet beachcombers at OB are gonna be surprised today. i hope this was actively promoted this year. One thing that makes me as an american jealous of my european friends is their culture of sunbathing topless. We need to change the cultural mores at home.