I had a better time than the conditions would predict. The waves are crappy, but the sun is shining, there's only a tiny wind, and I caught some chest/shoulder high crumblers.
Cold, beautiful day at HMB. Clean, knee-high, with occasional chest-high sets. There was another guy out from 8.30-9.30, but I had at least an hour to myself.
Fantastic morning for a longboard at HMB.
Sunny, no wind, tons of small peelers, and intermittent chest-high sets. Nice shoulders, and rare, glassy 2-foot barrels.
Conditions at LM were kinda crappy from 11-noon, but I had fun.
Mixed up, lots of white water, some closeouts, some shoulder-height ones which held up. Weather was nice, and not many people out. I took my "short" board instead of my preferred log - it looked like a terrible paddle-out for a bigger board.