12-3 on the smaller end. was really pretty decent once the tide started backing out, before that it was a little mushy and deep.
head-1.5oh and disorganized, yet light semi-offshore winds. got a handful of fun ones, but it was freakin PACKED with the ripper crowd. swear i was only in the water for an hour...when i got out...it had been 3...strange.

OB from 3-6 WAS SOOO FUN!
Comsistent overhead bombs coming through the outside and holding up till pitchimg inside. Got dangerously crowded fast though. Plus cuz I and others were getting in and out tubes (2 on one wave even!)

WOOP oh yeah! i drove up the length of the beach and most of it looked too out of control for me this early in the season. got to the n0rthern most little pocket of the beach and looked like some manageable 1.5OH waves breaking not to far out. in fact, it only took me 3 min to get out. between 1 and 3pm me and just a couple other people were scoring some THICK bowling rights.

i am stoking..got about 7 or 8 waves and all were overhead screamers. got 2 that linked inside for a racing closeout barrel. hope everyone is having fun and staying safe.

Waist-chest gutless slop..foggy..onshore. No idea why I went out but managed to have a little fun here and there for 2hrs. Poor ..save the minus cuz its rideable at least

Woop woop..and with the equinox comes fall conditons. Chest high..sunny warm clean. Dinoflagellates everywhere

"Actually, we're still in the last gasp of summer - fall technically begins at 2:04am on Fr ..."

430-7. was surprised to see some size out there today. where i was at, sets were solid overhead. walled and fun, mixed conditions between semi-glassy and semi-choppy depending on the minute. n0rthbound express was in fully force...i got out and walked 3 times.

"when you go out with low expectactions, you can only be pleasantly surprised. which I was ..."

So glad I got up at 4 to make the drive. Surfed from 545-9 at eastside spot with 1-3' OH fairly consistent sets. No wind. Very fast and long long rides if you could maje the sections. They were no match for my 5'7 quad fish. Only downside was the whole town was on it seeing as it is the "swell of the summer" managed to snag my fair share though.

Ps 20+ sec periods make the waves do trippy things

"Nice. Glad you scored. :)"

"schving!"

"What are the "trippy things" you noticed due to the 20 second wave period?"

"should have clarified...makes the 'ocean' do trippy things. in between sets the water woul ..."

"BTW i forgot no idea if it was 2 loc's having a good time...or 2 total kooks by a mere ..."