Tiny, warbled by a strong pulse of southerly wind swell from big sur. but hey a shitty nugget or 2 was on offer and when does surfing ever totally suck? Even talked my way out of a speeding ticket......

today beauty is in the eye of the beholder. thigh to waist high shitty nuggets on offer. short rides across racy mostly dumpy walls. fleeting moments in the midst of a surging crescendos. thank you i needed that.

surfed on the boil up to high tide. a bit wobbly and chunky. caught a few nuggets that lined up all the way down the reef. the crowd was chilled out and enjoying what was on offer. we are lucky bastards.

surfed 930 - 12ish. WH - CH. offshore nuggets on offer. peaky lefts and rights. sure there was was wobble on most. but it was clean and kinda soft hollow. I'm a shitty tube rider and I got 2 today. fun session for me and most of the crowd I was around.

surfed north 930i to 11. There where some fun waves when you where in the right place at the right time. the beach has been good too me lately. thank you mother ocean.

Surfed a beach south of hmb. Waist to chest high. offshore then glassy. Got a few long rides and a few little hollow pockets.