Took some time off the bike to get barreled. No one else out despite a city of several million very close by. Warm water too. Would have been big enough to ride on a long board, but not big enough for stand up barrels.
OB, it's nice to see you again! Wind has dropped right off, but it's still howling out at sea. That wind has stirred the water up and it's cold as hell. It's better than yesterday and there are a few peaks and faces to be had. But really it's only for the desperate.