Bodysurfed some decent waves with the sun going down, slamming pretty hard with little to nowhere to go. Got into some fun barrels but also went over the falls, which my dad on the beach happened to capture on film. Sometimes you get a good one, and sometimes you don't. Nice contrast to Judith's wave at Ft. Point today. There is a tad bit of redemption with the photo below.

Today's inside high-tide session didn't materialize like yesterday's. Still some fun ones, but it's pretty sporadic and at times very soft and mushy. Guys on boards getting the occasional good ride, for me bodysurfing was a lot of drop in and get pounded. Only a few that really lined up like yesterday. Still, it was nice to get wet before the rains come and really get us wet, and I also briefly got to chat with @redtim in the water....always enjoy meeting other stokereporters.

Had a fan-frickin-tastic bodysurfing session mid-morning, catching thumping waves on the inside during the high tide. Outside was total mush burger, but the inside was heaving and offering some epic barrels if you were willing to go for it. I had a world-class wipe-out...flew down the face and saw it hollowing out in the most unforgiving way, so I chucked my hand plane and went fetal. My buddy who was paddling back out said he saw me spitting through the barrel curled up like a baby. But beyond the wipe-out some very very very fun waves, looked decent for surfing too.

I'd give the conditions good, my surfing a Fair-. My head was not into it, and in big surf, that adds up to a whole lot of No Good. Brutal paddle of about 40min at Rivera St, caught one DOH right...decent. Talked to one of the notorious OB Hellmen in the water about not being mentally into it. His words: "f---ing charge it. Take your nuts out of your sack, and go." I did just that on a very big, late left and got obliterated. Free fall down the face, landed and got annihilated.
Now I'm home, nuts back in my sack, nursing my wounded pride.