Today was all about the unexpected.
-Paddle was much longer than I had expected.

Swell is building quickly. Sets coming through are solid, very powerful. I was under-gunned, got a few smaller ones but couldn't maintain my speed on the sets. Swell should just keep building too. I scored a lucky paddle, didn't have too much trouble.

The most striking part of the session was the lack of people in the water. There are almost a dozen reports up here from this morning, and yet I had ###### all to myself for an hour. So much for the "surf reports = crowds" theory...at least on big days.

Gotta disagree with the King. 2 hour session at ######, and I had a blast. The paddle was brutal, no watch to confirm this, but it felt like it was 30min+. Sure, there was some waiting around for sets, but when the bombs came through they were fantastic. Lots of energy, very walled up with long lines. My last wave took me all the way to the inside, at least a 100yd ride.

Got out as the storm clouds were showing up around 2:30, and the wind. Not too brutal but it seemed to be mushing things up.

To be brief: it's mind-bogglingly good. Clean, hollow, just a tad overhead. Ocean Beach has become a barrel-factory. For those that are at work, your Monday just got shittier, because you're missing one of the best days of fall.

Not too much to say that hasn't been said. Good waves, overhead at sets, a strange onshore crumble despite the lack of onhore winds. Surfed the Middle from 10-12:30...had to get out twice to walk back to Ground Zero for action. It's not epic but there are some great rides to be had. Pretty glorious weekend for conditions that were supposed to be "between swells." I wasn't the only one finding the random barrel put there.

Very marginal surf. Chest high sets at biggest, no real shape or organization. In general, it looks like summer, and during the summer, you sleep your ass in.