marklukach

16
Member:
5 years
Reports:
65 posts, 110 comments, 162 votes
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Surf Reports by marklukach


16

I was thinking about this after duck-diving under an outside bomb today and the 10-second monsoon from the offshore spray that followed, and had to open the floor to the Stokereporters.

8
16

Similar to yesterday, with more of everything. Definitely more size (sets double overhead+), much more offshore wind, similar low-wave count due to the difficulty of lining up the waves, stronger current, but more epic.
Snuck through a channel at ###### and drifted to bombs at ######. Saw a guy way down at ######, otherwise it was just me. Got one great wave, then took a clean-up set on the head and dragged back to shore. Waves weren't fully top-to-bottom so the poundings weren't as bad as I expected considering the size.

8
16

Today was all about the unexpected.
-Paddle was much longer than I had expected.

12
16

Swell is building quickly. Sets coming through are solid, very powerful. I was under-gunned, got a few smaller ones but couldn't maintain my speed on the sets. Swell should just keep building too. I scored a lucky paddle, didn't have too much trouble.

The most striking part of the session was the lack of people in the water. There are almost a dozen reports up here from this morning, and yet I had ###### all to myself for an hour. So much for the "surf reports = crowds" theory...at least on big days.

13
16

I noticed today that Magicseaweed has changed Ocean Beach from a Central California surf spot to a Northern California surfspot. Surfline has called us Central California forever. Surfpulse is clear (tagline: Feel the pulse of Northern California surfing), and the boys down in Pacifica who tagged the NorCal surfshop pretty obviously think that we are in Northern California.

6
16

Gotta disagree with the King. 2 hour session at ######, and I had a blast. The paddle was brutal, no watch to confirm this, but it felt like it was 30min+. Sure, there was some waiting around for sets, but when the bombs came through they were fantastic. Lots of energy, very walled up with long lines. My last wave took me all the way to the inside, at least a 100yd ride.

Got out as the storm clouds were showing up around 2:30, and the wind. Not too brutal but it seemed to be mushing things up.

10
16

To be brief: it's mind-bogglingly good. Clean, hollow, just a tad overhead. Ocean Beach has become a barrel-factory. For those that are at work, your Monday just got shittier, because you're missing one of the best days of fall.

7
16

Not too much to say that hasn't been said. Good waves, overhead at sets, a strange onshore crumble despite the lack of onhore winds. Surfed the Middle from 10-12:30...had to get out twice to walk back to Ground Zero for action. It's not epic but there are some great rides to be had. Pretty glorious weekend for conditions that were supposed to be "between swells." I wasn't the only one finding the random barrel put there.

7