I think OB is was about as good as it gets from 10-12. Surfed ######, solid 2x with some sets pushing 3x. I think I had the best left of my life out there. Dropped in very steep on a macking set wave, and after getting to the bottom I held a line that slowly faded me up the face and into a barrel the size of my living room. I'm so stoked I'm a bit incoherent.

Wind seems to be picking up a bit, but this morning was a gift from OB.

It's starting to materialize out there. Baby steps are being made. Size is still big, waves are top-to-bottom and look heavy, but there are more makeable shoulders. The way outside mysto-bars aren't breaking. If you like it big and hairy (that's what she said), today could be the day. My surf window isn't for a few hours but I will share a report after I get out, because I'm set on paddling today. Too much watching, not enough surfing lately.

About 4 lines of white water set up a good ole fashioned paddle marathon. Put your hood on for the ice cream headaches that await and have fun.

More of yesterday's slop out here today. It's a bit cleaner, a bit smaller, but the marginal increase in shape doesn't make it surfable.

Another early season big swell appears to have passed OB by.

Surf is big but very jumbled. Waves are folding on themselves, there's the occasional shoulder that you could work but then you'd get crunched by the close-out section. Unfortunately these early season big swells seem to be arriving with a lot of wind out at sea, so they are quite jumbled.

It's always fun to watch big waves break though, especially when the mysto-sandbars are breaking way out at the horizon. And it's sunny, so it's worth coming to watch, just be cautious if you paddle out.

After dilly-dallying through the morning, I finally pulled the trigger and paddled out at ######. Paddle out wasn't terrible, but not easy either. There is a lot of water movement and energy out there, although the waves aren't huge, there is power. I had a couple of very fun lefts before lining one up all the way to the inside, and decided to cut the session short to avoid paddling out again.

It was equal parts cool, equal parts creepy to be the only guy out at the ######, on a day with energy in the water, misty fog, and boisterous sea life.

Surfed ###### this morning for about an hour. There were some promising looking waves, but really difficult to line up the shifty, peaky windswell that is currently in the water. It's always fun to get wet, but it should be more fun in the next few days than what we had out there this morning.