Surfed out in front of that big parking lot that is on the opposite side of town from Steamer Lane. Because sometimes you just have to paddle out, lay down on your board and squint at the horizon and realize you are NOT the reason waves appear at said location.

"Surfed" from 6:30 til 7:45am, warm water, 8 people in the lineup, mix of long and short. I got the best rides of anyone on the 1' waves that were coming through. Otters, seals, fog, kelp, you know the usual.

My knees are bleeding from getting slapped by the waves all morning, BUT the water was warm and only two other guys out. Hit it early on the incoming tide. Plethora of NW wind-swell and the occasional SW set rolling through. Poor+ because it's summer and the wind is already on it.

Found a near empty parking lot on the Eastside and there were some cool steps down to the beach nearby. Foggy, dropping tide, just me and the old timers and our logs. OK, a couple shorties paddled out, got skunked and paddled back in. The surf was macking at a solid 2' and a good time was had by all! (except for the two shorties that couldn't catch anything). Going with good, but not good+ due to size.

Surfed this am from 6:45 until the tide was high-ish. Fairly decent 3-4' waves with an occasional 5' set that would roll through. good mix of long and shortboards with only a couple grumpy people in the lineup. I'm giving it a good because it was, but not a + or great because the wind is picking up early and I wanted the waves to be bigger, more consistent, and with less people :P

Surfed Eastside a lunchtime, north of where those film crews occupy the parking lot and fill the lineup with boats and boards. Solid 3-5' - light crowds and light winds. Several good waves on my new board that is 2' shorter than what I normally ride - woah! Lots of fun, mellow vibe in the water. Good times had by all.

Seems like everyone figured the wind and rain would be on it this morning, but nooooo mother nature delivered the goods! No rain until about 8:30, and ocean surface was clean and smooth. Solid 6-8' bombs at the point and 4-6' line drives at Indicator's. Two incredible rides from Indicator's to inside Cowell's will keep me stoked for the rest of the day.

"take some probiotics..."

Solid 8-10' with regular 12' sets coming through. Heavy water flowing at the point. Coast guard boat, copter, and jet ski - check. Took out the shortboard with a new leash. Super long paddle out to the point - check. Set wave - check! A couple medium sized waves - check. Five wave clean up set on the head - check. Second broken leash of the week - full on freakin paddle back in from the point - check!

Was ok with with the swim back in, and several cool folks saying they'd keep an eye on me. Thought for sure the board would have washed down to Capitola with all the water flowing. Almost back to shore and my favorite surfer of all time is paddling back out on my board with his trailing behind him. Super rad, count my blessings, thanks awesome surfer dude experience - check!

"Yikes! Glad you made it in okay. Who was your knight in shining armour? You don't want ..."

"Wish I knew his name! I told him I owed him a 6 pack, but he was paddling back out to the ..."

"Ncal, just out of curiosity what brand of leash were you using and what size board were yo ..."

"Was riding an 8' board with a Da Kine leash."

"This pic is of a smaller set breaking inside near Jack's house - still a good 6-7'"