Solid south has the points lighting up. HH+ and lined up yadda yadda... crazy Fre)(&@#43kn' busy for a weekday....yet we still go, still put up with all the crap, get a long clean one and still plan to come back. The cycle continues. stoked.
Finally got to score one of the S swell focal points that has always seemed to skunk me. Clean, HH-OH+ and just heaving. Was almost as fun to watch the boys huck themselves into the barrels as it was to be hucked. Lots of stoke and sunburn in the water.
Im pretty sure a good portion of the SF surf community took a "long lunch" today. Sunny, calm, and peaky with mushy to occasional fun+ shoulders. Lots of stoke walking to the water (if you know what I mean) as well as in.
Passed on the Lindamar "sewing circle" and found a peak that was working on the uber high, packing a bit more punch than expected. Clean and shifty peaks, well worth the paddle. Must be all that new sand washing into the ocean...