5:45 pm -- Today probably wasn't the best to get back into the water for the first time in 6 months, but my surfer girl was insistent. Arrived to strong cross/onshores and messy windswell. Board did not make it out of bag, broke out the mighty sponge. That worked for threading the chest high set waves (thanks to south swell?) through the mess. Conditions decayed further as sunset approached.

Went in before dawn which was beautiful with pink wispy clouds. Occasional HH-OH peaks outside, short period seems to be dominating so shape is pretty weak, but a nice slide out onto a mushy wall could be had. I couldn't do much with the inside. Made some bad choices on later trips outside and had nice pummeling in higher tide inside mess. By 8:45 tide seemed to have pretty much shut everything down, you'll need foam I guess until much later.