Solid overhead pushing 2x. It takes a special snowflake to even try today. Being my usual self, I of course, was dismissive. Got out the 6'4 gringo thinking eh, no biggie.OK, biggie. Three mouseketeers put in where the crow flies, and after that it was a 6 bar full signal duck a l'orange slogfest. A few times we gave each other 'the look'. You know as you paddle out, and a huge folding meaty beast roars on the inside, and it makes you pause, and 'look' at your paddle partner in disbelief and dismay for confirmation. I even gave the roundup signal, but you know, stubborn me...never gives up a fight even if up against the ropes. So I pushed. And I got out. The next question is what now....I made it out, so now I have to actually DO something. I'm watching HUGE bombs just spray to the South. I see H20 in the pit to the South and I'm like 'wow, I'm glad I'm not there'. So my strategy to get back in was to get a tweener. Not a huge outlier bomb, but something imbetween in the pit. I move in and take the risk. Next thing I know I see a tweener building. Go time. Stand, yet I feel air...shit...then...thankfully board again...tha tha tha tha tha tha tha F YEAHHHHH!

"Not to steal from a friend, but here's one of H20man after sitting in the pit for a while. ..."

"i was not a man today but just a old man cuz i got to ######, than ob and keep on driving ..."

"After about 40 min of getting denied, I finally got and waled up the beach to another spot ..."

"F. 40 minutes paddling, the first 30 w/@piss until he found a seam, leaving me by my frust ..."

"@sticker, not sure if it makes you feel better, but it was a complete shit show further so ..."

Really good time out there this morning. I looked at the wind projections, and the swell size/period and decided a trip down S would be best. Sometimes I get it wrong and sometimes I get it right. I got it right. LM was lined up, giving nice long rides, with not too many people on the peaks. Norteno side offered very nice head high rollers. Tucked into a few dead ends, but the size was saying it would be of no major consequence, so I stayed in till it got dark a few times. Went back down Southside for a second helping with a few friends, so it was a one and a half session morning :) Dunno why everyone was congregating there, but then again, I was alone Northside and that's just fine says selfish me. Good times.
Polished it off with a free coffee from Sbux because the barista took pity on me because the lady before me was executing a laundry list (no less than 10 fru-fru drinks). So I took my two bucks I saved and went next door to have the bear claw of surfer's revenge. Tore into that mothertrucker like a bear on a mission, digging into the hive....impervious and unabated by the swarm of stings. Fair+, standing on two hind legs, sniffing the wind.

"Mexico was offing some smiling faces with white feathers on their shoulders when I was dow ..."

"my god - i would NEVER go surfing on the first day of rainfall after such a long dry spel ..."

"fun stuff indeed! deadly indeed! Just say no. Surprisingly crowded for a rainy windy d ..."

"Didn't have the luxury of going home to shower off the runoff cooties before work. Shot of ..."

"@piss - next time try the bavarian cream filled maple or chocolate bar at that donut shop. ..."

Nah just kidding...Cronulla is about HH and glassy with some offies keeping the magic.
No wettie, just boardies and heaps of slatherings of creme. Boxing day should be better and more solid.

"Stoked for you."

"Merry Stokemas!"

"Now we are gonna get some of my countrymen flaming SR coz we revealed to the world that th ..."

Some serious HH groundswell is coming in from afar. However, up close, we have some gnar sideshore creating absolute havoc. Took the fish out, lost the fish. Swam back in. I found it at the shore, I knew it wouldn't bob around on the inside, because like I said, there's some serious push out there. Size isn't huge, but it's definitely got some punch. The walk of shame was absolutely MISERABLE. Colder than a witches tit out there. Claws barely could get me back into the house. Worth a paddle. You could find something. Poor+ rated on conditions, not lost fish :)

"That is quite a fish story, glad you recovered your catch. Thanks for the heads up!"

"Thanks for the report. I knew between the wind readings and what I was seeing on the cam t ..."

"I wanted to take the wind out back and shoot it this morning. "

"I would have rated it as Good+. Had a fairly easy paddle out and then picked off some nic ..."

Big, clean, mean. Solid OH.
A little closey and explodey so sometimes you better go like you mean it and just hope for the best.

"Forgot to add this: "