It's good out there, if you have the skills. Lacking skills, I spent most of my session paddling toward something more manageable with little success. Getting bigger.

"there are fun waves, but crowds are on it, and super long wait between sets. scored a few ..."

"I caught a few barrels on camera earlier. Was fun to watch! http://www.flickr.com/phot ..."

"^there are some winners in that set, nice!"

"It was serious business out there at the apex of the beach. Saw some dude stuff a solid 1 ..."

"@tastelid: Did you shoot any body surfers? I was at an undisclosed location that rhymes wi ..."

Be prepared to paddle. And then paddle some more. Worth it tho.

7:45-9:00ish...Nice and glassy and when I could chase down a set wave had blast. Some of them even walled up nicely after a soft take off. Way more fun than it looked from the beach.

"fun ones. "

"'Fair' is about a perfect description. Not a memorable session for fall, but certainly fun ..."

"Walled up, clean, racy. Like always, your aggressiveness, your skill, and a little luck, ..."

" fun ones"

"Got my stitches out! Back in the game, took my 10' log to lindy and left cuz to small,went ..."

What the hell is going on at the beach? Is that a UFO out there?

"ok, was i the only one who saw that weird submarine thing on the cam this morning? "

"They must be from the Darma project...."

"streetlight?"

"crap, got me good, I was just about to go look for stray keys"

"yeti worship"

Looked alot better than it was. Kinda a mix between close outs and mushy shoulders. Alot of current sucking me south and ass cold this morning. I got two and called it a day.