Canggu, Bali - 4-8 feet with plenty of power. Saw a local guy snap his longboard in half. Got some really fun ones at echo beach until my buddy cut his foot and we had to get out. I don't want to leave this place.

Kauai, actually. Evening session yesterday with WH-HH peaks in Poipu thanks to some southern hemi/trade swell mix. Got plenty of fun lefts and rights with a small friendly crowd. The warm water is a welcome change. Heading to Hanalei tomorrow...

"the outer outer outer outer OUTER bars at sfob were firing you say? :)"

"Monday at honolua wasn't too shabby either. "

"Nice.. good to hear. I'm headed there next week (first time to HI) and was afraid it was ..."

Fun waves in the land of salsa, green chiles and Central American dictators this morning. Easy roll-in SH-HH peaks. Lefts and rights galore. Stoked.

"Huh. Was about to give it a "fair-." Lots of closeouts - I managed to snag a few decent on ..."

"managed to snag one of those mutant double ups just right, stoked. "

"HH, for a lilliputter. "

"@fatnewt - there *were* a lot of double-ups, weren't there? I wonder why that is."

"I'm going out and I expect to see double ups and diamonds in the rough."

Wow, that was a fun morning.

Observed: everybody

Didn't have the lungs or cojones for the beach this morning, but now I wish that I had. LM was CH-HH+ closeout bombs. Just exploding in about 10 inches of water. I think I got one thing that I might consider a 'ride' which consisted of me trying to drive on a high line and getting pitched onto my back.

Not completely un-stoked, but the stoke tank was definitely less than half full.

Surfed this morning from 7:30-8:30. Mostly in the WH range and clean, with a few CH-SH sets every 15 minutes or so. Some good rides were had although most of the set waves were typical LM closeouts. Better than sleeping in.

"I was out from 3p to dark. Low tide closeouts, CH - HH up near Alaska but there were corn ..."

Fun in the sun today from 12-2 somewhere near the middle. Plenty of peaks and some long walls that held up just fine. Playing hooky is so great when it pays off.

Observed: a half-eaten seal smorgasbord in the ######.

"Ditto. Out there in the ######, same time. No work, no wind, no (major) crowds.. not a bad ..."

"The end of the beach I was at was not really good at all (11-1). So bummed I picked the wr ..."

"my Maui boys were in town today, brah...too bad it wasn't crackin' for 'em. anyhow, we got ..."

"That's like 6 inches Hawaiian. And they had to get cold for it!"

"Common sense tells me that there is a joke in their somewhere"

conditions were not ideal this morning, but I managed to snag a couple that held up and keep the stoke alive. Much better than yesterday morning.