Thinning out my quiver. rarely ride this anymore. Custom made for me and OB and thinned a bit from original dimensions but glassed heavy; still has pretty beefy rails and significant foam- a great paddler. Five fin set-up. One rail gash professionally repaired by Alex Martins (although matching the color didn't quite work); rail shape perfect; watertight. No other dings or marks.
Wednesday 5 to 7 pm. Ahh, summertime. Had my window. Took it. And my reward was fog and onshores. CH+ on the N side; pretty serious surface chop. Plus on the poor rating becuase there was energy in the water, it was lined up, and the outside was frothing on the low tide. Early entry into speedy messy explosions on the inside. Surf then beer in the parking lot afterwards led me to be patient and actually funny with my kids while they procrastinated getting into bed, and I'm still stoked this morning. Funny how surfing with do that to a person...
Gimme a j, gimme a k, gimme an l, gimme a m,m,m. Surprise second shift (9-11) at one of the usual summer spots. Lots of rides by all, happy stoking, and even a SUP-short board tussle in the dirty parking lot! Good tummies, good times.
Looked like crap, surfed better and bigger south of the crowded spot. Good vibes and I shared the line up with three mellow guys. Double digits for all. Surprise!
Beautiful morning. CH+ on the small end. Opted not to sit in the pack for the steep and fast inside; found my own roller coaster near a rip. Plenty of waves, plenty of stoke and plenty of sunshine.