Was pretty fun for a while. chest to head high with some decent shape. Also got a good beating by a set, stuck inside watching other guys get good ones for about 10 minutes. Then I left my wetsiut bag behind, paid dues twice!

Did the the sunset session. Big, enough to keep crowds away. Constant rip sucking south and out to sea made it tricky to line up but when you got one, super fun drops to decent shoulders. long walk back to the car.

3pm. Bailed on the dental appointment, was definitely worth the late cancellation I am going to get hit with. Was drained looking when I got there and I thought it might have been a bad move. Got better-Stoked!

"Yet more evidence that surfing is better than a trip to the dentist."

4-5:30 fair+. Smooth with some oomph if you chose wisely. Until I got stuck in the rip and ran out of gas. Dolphins, stoked!

"multiple dolphin aerials were a bonus. smooth with some nice long shoulders if you chose w ..."

"Very very nice out there. Paddle battle, but not as gnar as the AM. StÖked."

3-5:30, Smooth, bigger than the last few days (not sayin' how many feet but it was overhead) and some long walls. Rode one too far and had to pay the price of admission all over again. Calling it my best waves of the fall season so far due to size/juice factor.

"look'd it from the cams. only saw a few dudes out but mind surfed a few long rides. stok ..."

"some adult sized waves out there. Was with a few other happy souls before it got sloppy at ..."

"Raw, semi-jumbled, and at times a wash of unpredictability. The currents were pulling pret ..."

"Newt- very true. It was whack-a-mole out there. The stoke to 11 is on relative terms- work ..."

"Some came in with promise but lacked that punch that made this wknd so fun. That said, it ..."

3-5pm Paddled out based on parking availability and the fact this stretch of beach had not been reported. Trying to avoid the flock as discussed below. Swell dying but still some nuggets. Best weather conditions in a year, sooo nice.
Observed: Vanload of druggies parked near me, must've been too hot in GG park. Didn't get my car broken into, stoked! Needless to say I didn't stash my key, went in the wetsuit pocket. Ended up picking up they trash they left behind later.