It's cleaned up quite a bit from earlier in the week. There is swell, it's not junky, but expect closeouts and long lulls. Swinging wildly from Knee-Chest high to Chest-Head. Workable with patience.

Sun's out. Light winds. Froggies singing over in the marsh.

""I was rocking newborn-deer style pretty hard" I almost spit my cereal on my work keyboard ..."

"wow, once you get up on the 7'4 consistently, pretty much any shortboard is going to be fa ..."

"Ha, Zero! Thanks. I got one nice long wave which I spent wiggling all over the face li ..."

"I don't know you Tracy but reading your posts makes me smile as I seem to be tracking just ..."

"Pretty board! Glad you're stoked. "

After two weeks dry, I picked up a double session today. Fair in the morning with no wind, good shoulders holding up, and long mellow waist high waves. Fair- in the afternoon, deteriorating with the tide. Still pretty smooth and clean with no wind, lots more pep and push, but more clouseouts. Waist-Chest high with some larger waves hiding in sets. Both sessions were plenty fun with pretty reliable sets (after lulls.) Holiday crowd was all bunched up waiting for who-knows-what, so I had a little room to breathe. I'm stoked.

Oh and my personal stoke-influenced rating would be a Fair++. Reined it in to Fair sliding to Fair- (and probably well into poor- by now) for those of you looking for something more objective than: "YAY!"

I got there late and stood in the fog watching closeout after closeout. There were big booms from somewhere I couldn't see and a hugh pack huddled up in the place I could see. Slowly the fog lifted and around the time the morning shift was packing it up, a Fog Bow appeared. What was closeoutcity fogfest became sunny prettyworkableville. There's some size out there for sure, things swing wildly between waist high and just above shoulder high. There were still plenty of closeouts but also a good bit of fun. I have lots of sand in my ears, but overall happy with the morning.

"Fun swoopy rides! "

I'd forgotten what it was like to squeeze lemonade out of stone cold closeouts. Hooooo ouch. There were makeable open face rides hidden away in the wash, but it was still a lot of thumping, grumping, and fog. Everything from Shoulder High closeout to Waist High mushjunker. As I left, it looked like more tide was helping with the close out problem, but swamping things entirely. Bring low expectations and plenty of sugar.

"a complete waste of perfectly good calories. "

"I hope to replenish them with some hapa ramen."

"I skipped the lemonade and went straight for the arnold palmer. Dropped into many 'shacki ..."

Looked better than I'd expected and, given that I was taking a very long scenic route back from a way too early client meeting, I gave it a go. Surprisingly not awful. I've surfed way worse. Wasn't junky, wasn't too closed out, it wasn't all that bad it just wasn't all that great. The sun was out a while and there were even a few moments the onshore winds stopped blowing and I got a couple smooth waves in. huh. Thank you, o ocean, for a little bit of something in an otherwise desperado session. Worse as I was leaving, but hey, less crowded for you late afternoon desperados.

Every time I get a little air on a longboard it tends to be accompanied by a considerable amount of surprise. Usually me getting air on a 9'4 means something weird is going on. Something weird was def going on at the SMOTspot I was at this morning. LOTS of backwards reflection jacking the waves up to pretty steep closeouts. Today's surprising air move was brought to you by me catching an outgoing wave while paddling out, ramping the incoming closeout at pretty good speed, and launching myself back into the lineup. If you want exciting, ungraceful chest high waves, they're out there. If you want something a little cleaner, spend more time hunting.

"Thank you for flying Air Stewart."

"Earlier in the morning, I'd mentioned to G that if I could find a way to fly out to the li ..."