The recent spate of south swells made me think how most surf spots are one trick ponies in as much as they only light up during one season of the year or on a more specific swell direction. For example; Malibu=summer, Rincon=winter, the whole of the North Shore=winter, Trestles=summer, Pavones=summer, etc etc.
Weds am: Not Epic, but Classic. Big Glassy South Swell- Long lulls on the patch, Breaking way outside. Worth the wait.
Saw an anxious Rottweiler paddling out to the line up, looking for somebody. Eventually picked up by a SUP and taken back to shore (I assume)
Pretty nice out there this morning--overhead, consistent, little to no texture. Enough energy to get the adrenaline up, but not quite mega-scary-hold-down quality. Got a couple waves and one nice wipeout. Fun Fun Fun. I would say good- surfing, but it gets wayyyy better out here, and you have to leave some room on the scale.